Behind the counter

T HE VIEW OF COLORADO SPRINGS from Gold Camp Road is spectacular. The old road takes you from the city limits to Cripple Creek, once a gold mining town with real outlaws, now an outpost of casino gambling full of one‑armed bandits and day‑trippers from Aurora. The tourist buses drive to Cripple Creek on Highway 67, which is paved. Gold Camp Road is a dirt road through the foothills of Pikes Peak, a former wagon trail that has narrow hairpin turns, no guardrails, and plenty of sheer drops. For years, kids from Cheyenne Mountain High School have come up here on weekend nights, parked at spots with good aerial views, and partied. On a clear night the stars in the sky and the lights of the city seem linked, as though one were reflecting the other. The cars and trucks on Interstate 25, heading north to Denver and south toward Pueblo, are tiny, slow‑moving specks of white. The lights dwindle as the city gives way to the plains; at the horizon the land looks darker than the sky. The great beauty of this scene is diminished when the sun rises and you can clearly see what’s happening down below.

Driving through the neighborhoods of Colorado Springs often seems like passing through layers of sedimentary rock, each one providing a snapshot of a different historical era. Downtown Colorado Springs still has an old‑fashioned, independent spirit. Aside from a Kinko’s, a Bruegger’s Bagel Bakery, a Subway, and a couple of Starbucks, there are no chain stores, not a single Gap in sight. An eclectic mixture of locally owned businesses line Tejon Street, the main drag. The Chinook Bookshop, toward the north end, is as fiercely independent as they come – the sort of literate and civilized bookstore going out of business nationwide. Further down Tejon there’s an ice cream parlor named Michelle’s that has been in business for almost fifty years and, around the corner, there’s a western wear shop called Lorig’s that’s outfitted local ranchers since 1932. An old movie palace, nicknamed “the Peak” and renovated with lots of neon, has a funky charm that could never be mass produced. But when you leave downtown and drive northeast, you head toward a whole new world.

The north end of the city near Colorado College is full of old Victorian houses and Mission‑style bungalows from the early part of this century. Then come Spanish‑style and adobe houses that were popular between the world wars. Then come split‑level colonials and ranch‑style houses from the Leave It to Beaver era, small, modest, cheery homes.

Once you hit Academy Boulevard, you are surrounded by the hard, tangible evidence of what has happened in Colorado during the last twenty years. Immense subdivisions with names like Sagewood, Summerfield, and Fairfax Ridge blanket the land, thousands upon thousands of nearly identical houses – the architectural equivalent of fast food – covering the prairie without the slightest respect for its natural forms, built on hilltops and ridgetops, just begging for a lightning strike, ringed by gates and brick walls and puny, newly planted trees that bend in the wind. The houses seem not to have been constructed by hand but manufactured by some gigantic machine, cast in the same mold and somehow dropped here fully made. You can easily get lost in these new subdivisions, lost for hours passing from Nor’wood, to Briargate, to Stetson Hills, from Antelope Meadows to Chapel Ridge, without ever finding anything of significance to differentiate one block from another – except their numbers. Roads end without warning, and sidewalks run straight into the prairie, blocked by tall, wild grasses that have not yet been turned into lawns.

Academy Boulevard lies at the heart of the new sprawl, serving as its main north‑south artery. Every few miles, clusters of fast food joints seem to repeat themselves, Burger Kings, Wendy’s, and McDonald’s, Subways, Pizza Huts, and Taco Bells, they keep appearing along the road, the same buildings and signage replaying like a tape loop. You can drive for twenty minutes, pass another fast food cluster, and feel like you’ve gotten nowhere. In the bumper‑to‑bumper traffic of the evening rush hour, when the cars and the pavement and the strip malls are bathed in twilight, when the mountains in the distance are momentarily obscured, Academy Boulevard looks just like Harbor Boulevard in Anaheim, except newer. It looks like countless other retail strips in Orange County – and the resemblance is hardly coincidental.